Macau – where yesterday meets today in innumerable ways: an eclectic fusion of the West’s savory herbs meeting the East’s steamy spices; where hedonistic delights cast shadows over ancient soldiers of God’s domain; a comfortable enigma that loves to be explored.

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The original Portuguese explorers sailed to Macau by boat 1513; as would we 500 years later –  but in a back-to-the-future style’s water-jet catamaran ferry. These fast wave-taming turbo-jet Cats, and jet-foil mono-hulled ferries are the most fitting way to arrive at this enclave’s legendary links with the sea.

They buzShenzhen_Shekou Ferry terminalz constantly back and forth from Hong Kong’s international airport, and ports along Hong Kong island, Kowloon, and Shenzhen to Macau; It’s a bargain at less than $40 US, for the hour-long voyage.  You can choose to land at the Macau Maritime Terminal, the favored marine gateway, mere minutes to the mecca’s original casinos and iconic historical locations; or arrive at Cotai Terminal that’s closer to many of the Cotai Strip’s large casinos.

Once our morning’s custom’s passport check was passed it was a race, to assure occupancy, at one of the economical no-frills, no-reservations hotels close to Senado Square, around Rua de Caldeira. Normally these hotels fill up quickly so timing is essential tMacau_economy_hotelo book a room – today we were in luck, our first choice had vacancies! But soon that blessing seemed empty, since my last trip a few short years ago things had changed; their once below $50 US nightly rates had now climbed to $100 US – just for the most basic of accommodations. So much for selling my wife, Tian, on a bohemian-style getaway that wouldn’t stress our post-Christmas budget.

The room barely met her approval, and then possibly only to humor me, knowing we would be there just for sleeping; our days filled exploring historical sites, delving into unique cultural experiences, which included tasty fusion cuisine, and tempting luck with evening casino visits possibly kept her expectations of modern comfort at bay too.

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To sooth any apprehensions we quickly got to a favorite café, Dragon Portuguese Cuisine, just a hundred meters from our hotel, but where the street changes its name to Rua da Felicidade. After toasting our arrival with a heady red wine, we jumped into devouring tasty ocean muscles; bean soup with ripe black olives and accented with drizzles of fruity olive oil; a chicken pot’s fantastic flavored heavy broth containing hints of coconut, turmeric’s glistening hue and earthiness, and a base that acknowledged the presence of curry, all in perfect balance, like a concert in your mouth daring you to not grab the bowl and drink the last drops as a fine nectar.

Now we were more than ready to begin exploring – St. Paul’s a must! Two blocks down, one across, and we’re at Sedona Square; normally just a 10-minute walk to our destination.  But now through an eclectic tangle of Chinese New Year’s preparations, centuries old government offices, religious edifices, “pastelaria’s” tasty tempting “free” samples, local retailers and international brands vying side-by-side with their lower than low sales to encourage your credit cards daring escape to consumer heaven – the ancient ruins trek turned into a interesting half-day spree.

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A contributing factor – pre-weekend crowds along the car-less alley’s path to the ruins was heavy, much more than experienced before, but much less than what the Lunar New Year’s holiday’s human tidal wave would soon bring, and like traveling in the fog when you slow down, you notice things for the first time; tending to stop, sample and shop for treasures of want, and less of need.

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No matter, the first glimpse of the picturesque 400-year-old façade of St. Paul’s was as rewarding as ever, visions of religious pomp and ceremony at its inauguration vied with the reality of today’s throngs, then as now, posing for memories along its 68 steps to a heaven’s gate.

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Beside these Jesuit ruins, to the right, the neighboring ramparts of the 1600’s Fortaleza do Monte, and its array of never defeated canons, facing the southern and eastern China Sea approaches to Macau, a fortified position also built by these “soldiers of god”, to protect their tiny enclave from pirates, Dutch raiders, and other’s designs of usurping Macau’s enviable plum reputation being Asia’s trading center.

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A canon blast from this very wall is credited with turning the tide in the 1622 Battle for Macau. The invading Dutch navy outnumbered Macau’s lightly defended civil guard 5 to 1; but a lucky canon shot, from this very wall, exploded a Dutch gunpowder barrel sending them into disarray.

This must-see fortification also houses the Macau museum –  reinforcing the time warp you are now fully engaged in as it empties you into narrow streets never designed for anything but people and carts pulled by beasts of burden, be they human or animal.

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Another secret, although less dramatic jewel, the Mercado de Santa Domingo’s, its typical canvas-tented hawkers selling mostly textiles, cheap gifts, and home-wares in their narrow alley; hiding the center piece – under a domed building’s roof is the fruit, vegetable, meats, eggs, fresh and dried fish market, with incredibly fresh quality foods. It’s worth it just to go in for a bagful of sweet miniature sugar oranges, apples, or large aromatic mango’s. You will find it between the square and the Rua dos Mercadores, basically behind the large Macau Government Tourist Office.

More, even less inconspicuous, gems are found along the narrow street, Rua de Camilo Pessanha, just north of Rua dos Mercadores. There you’ll find a traditional Chinese medicine’s “farmacia” Tong Sin Tong – its hundreds of magical aromatic potions of herbs, seeds, and pods whose tallies and receipts are still calculated with an abacus proficiently exercised by their chemists at speeds mimicking light, and preferred over the nearby electronic calculator! Purchases are still weighed by timeworn delicate balance string scales whose accuracy was never once questioned by the constant flow of remedy seekers who, by their shared informalities, were regular health conscious patrons of well being.

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A little further, on the opposite street side is the small, but far from insignificant, museum of China’s master wood craftsman, Lu Ban, reportedly born in 507 BC, who is credited with inventing hundreds of tools and devices that aided military campaigns during the tumultuous Spring and Autumn civil wars of the splintered Eastern Zhou Dynasty. Later his talents created complex building structures, and the tools needed to form intricate wood interlocking mortise-and-tenon joints – the museum’s entry dupes you with its small sparse entry, but as you advance it increases dramatically, in size and scope with engaging samples, descriptions, videos, and interactive displays amazing all who have even an ounce of curiosity.

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Across the street from Lu Ban’s is a large, open, garage door and peering from a distance, through the shadows, all you see is a monochromatic scene with hundreds, possibly thousands, of white sacks piled high, surrounded in black dust – in RGB contrast two colorfully dressed women sat cheerily sharing tea at a clean, but paper strewn desk at the entrance –   a contradiction that demanded a photo, at the very least, and a desire to know this venture’s story!

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The two women noticed our curiosity and with a friendly gesture beckoned us closer, it’s where black charcoaled wood is sorted into sizes and bagged for distribution among not only the many specialty restaurants and food stands, who demand not just the best, but the most convenient cooking heat too. Charcoal wood is still a primary source for cooking heat in many older homes in Macau. Whether out of necessity, or to enjoy the natural flavors the wood’s smoke gives roasted food – this business was flourishing!

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Suffice to say an amazing amount of intrigue and history are found in this little land’s melting pot of East meets West’s culture – enough in fact to thoroughly entertain one without the need to go to the island’s popular casinos and hedonistic night life that Macau’s reputation teases you with; but that would be rather boring!

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There are magnificent high-tech attractions, and iconic shows to marvel at: Wynn’s no-charge musical fountain, Dragon of Fortune, and Money Tree shows are great to see if you’re in the area. City of Dreams dramatic, but costly, House of Dancing Water is a stunning performance that shouldn’t be missed. Lastly there’s the chance meeting of the ever elusive lady luck, set aside a few dollars to play a few games with cautious enthusiasm.

Our three full days were filled with curiosity filling moments that barely covered three-square blocks, they alone entertained us so much, and that thirst for more will bring us back again and again to wander among more of its narrow alleys in a romantic and magnetic quest to feel the past, and delight in the present.

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Fast facts:

Brief history: The Portuguese paid tribute to Ming era authorities for the use of Macau since 1557. Benefits of the Opium Wars secured and expanded Macau to include the islands of Taipa and Coloane as a Portuguese Territory in 1887 until being returned to China in 1999.

Currently: Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China, as is Hong Kong. Macau has its own police, money, and immigration policies. It includes a large island, long ago two, Taipa and Coloane, before they were joined with a 5 sq. kilometer land fill to form the district of Cotai in the early 2000’s to be used for future development and increase casino potential.

Visas: Not required for most Asian, European and Western nationalities; 30-90 days.

Money & CC’s:  Macau Pataca (MOP), on par with, and used alongside Hong Kong dollar. Chinese and Western credit cards accepted at most establishments.

GDP: Little Country, big stature – once tied with Qatar for having highest wealth/GDP per capita in the world; and has the 4th highest life expectancy.

Information: Macau Gov. Tourist Office: NW side of main entrance to Senado Square. Open: 9:00-18:00. Telephone: +853-2831-5566. Website: http://www.macautourism.gov.mo/

Accommodation: All types, all price ranges $100 – $5,000 US. Weekend price hikes. Walk in rates can be higher than agency rates. Hottest tip – stay at a 4/5-star hotels in Zhuhai for $50-$200 US and walk cross into Macau each day.

Restaurants: All types, all price ranges. Chinese, Portuguese, and Western with tasty fusion foods – can be pricey; Chinese dim sums are the best bargain here, as are small sidewalk cafes in old section.

Transportation: Getting there – High-speed water-jet ferries ($30-$40US depending on weekend and night-time sailings) connect Hong Kong International airport, Hong Kong, Kowloon, and Shenzhen; one-hour avg. Buses connect Guangzhou, and Shenzhen to Macau via Zhuhai border crossing. Flights: Direct flights from most nearby Asian countries and many major Chinese cities. Once there: Extensive local bus system, free hotel busses connect with each other at Macau Maritime Terminal ferry depot; efficient taxi service found in all high density and commercial areas.