The Death Train venture from Bangkok alone could have been a day’s adventure, but there was more to come. After arriving at Nom Tok, a driver was quickly acquired to take us to a remote pier, about 15 minutes away,  on the River Kwai. Here our hotel’s narrow “long-tail” boat-taxi, was waiting to take us to our remote lodgings.

These gimbal balanced V8, and V6 powered engines are attached to long horizontal shafts, with a propeller on the other end; hence the name “long-tail”.  In shallow water these propeller shafts are balanced half out of water, and literally whisked us up river to our hotel’s stunning location.

Overlooking not just a river, but a river made famous by villainous deeds inflicted by the Japanese during the Second World War on their helpless victims. They rushed to make a supply-line railway that would connect the Bay of Thailand with Burma’s Andaman Sea; bypassing the narrow choke-point in the Straights of Singapore, and leading to India’s Bay of Bengal where they could continue their military expansion.

More than 100,000 died during this deadly atrocity that’s spawned books, memos, and a famous 1957 movie – The Bridge on the River Kwai. Now every tree, every cliff and cave, every bend in the water could not be looked at without imagining what they witnessed 70 years earlier!

Fast forward to the here and now, in Central Thailand, and hidden from foreign hordes is the setting for true adventure. Where the words about journeys and destinations meld into one. An absolutely idyllic, rustic, setting that begged living to the fullest. You could actually feel both a subdued tension of adventure in the air and a whispered breeze of relaxation at the same time.

The central lodge exudes local antiques in its every nook and cranny. Curios are displayed in a way that implies simplistic and random informality; but the overall affect says they were deftly placed by an interior designer’s keen eye for perfection. Going up the lodge’s stair case takes you from a comfortable lounging area to the main floor’s registration desk, bar, restaurant. As well an entry portal to the properties upper level’s cabins, mini-lake, and outdoor spa area. Continuing up takes you to the 3^rd floor Thai massage balcony – so many choices.

   

Unfortunately, our stay was going to be short, two nights, so we had to make the most of each day; first keys to our room, and a quick check to ensure they met expectations: check – in spades! Comfortable, quiet, with lots of outlets to charge all our devices, and a commanding view of the river below from the duplex’s small veranda.

Next, after a quick walk around the lower grounds, to see its well-kept, but simple displays of trees, shrubs, and striking flowers; we needed to return to the activities desk to plan the following day’s events. Seeing elephants was high on our agenda, and we were told there were two nearby sanctuaries to choose from; the one with a river experience, not knowing exactly what that entailed, but with an idea it was far from the norm seemed the most interesting.

That done, time for a swim, my daughter was waiting by the pool demanding I take photos of her new friend — a cinnamon colored dragon fly. Apparently it had landed on her sunbathing body’s foot and knee many times and even with movement choose to stay, either on her, or on a nearby leafy branch.

 

Other sunbathers, who noticed this intimate act, came up to her and reveled in telling her renditions of such a significant event; At the very least a rare experience reserved for special people.  But others said that was only half true, it was also a visit from someone on the other side!

Our next pleasant surprise was at dinner: efficient staff, a diverse menu, and balcony sitting that overlooked the gardens, pool and river was a picture perfect setting. The food could have been just average, and all would have been OK, but it was much more than that, it was delicious. The Thai Tom Yum Goong (hot & sour soup), Som Tum (papaya salad), and of course the very traditional Moo Satay (skewered bar-b-q’ed pork with peanut sauce dips), were sumptuous! Add a tasty mojito and you have concluded a most rewarding day!

Sleep was easy – and waking up was something to look forward to; my daughters dream, to get close and personal with elephants in a non-touristy type of way would exceed her wildest expectations – but first breakfast. Included in our stay was more than just a simplistic meal one would expect, and have experienced previously at other hotels in North America; here an immense selection of tasty Western and Asian food was provided to easily fuel our day.

Fully fed, we were ready for our elephant foray … I’ve been on typical tourist elephant rides before, and promised myself I would never do again, but some photos I came across online hinted that this might be different. First we had to jump into our high-speed, long-tail boat and head downstream for about 20 minutes. We were unceremoniously dropped off at a simple wharf, and with a simple hand gesture pointed to a path way up a hill, which of course challenged us with a fork, and a decision to go left or right; left was the wrong way and we quickly reversed course and found the path to the elephant farm’s open air office, snack shack, and tourist gift store.

We seemed to have the place to ourselves, as no other travelers could be seen; however, my daughter soon spotted something, a baby elephant, and the little girl in her had her running towards it faster than you could say – look at that!

Before I got close the two of them were locked in a peculiar embrace – the small elephant using its trunk and Sierra holding it with one hand as she petted it with the other. The sanctuaries staff quickly offered food and a bottle of milk for her to feed the elephant with. Sierra was in maternal heaven bonding with a 200 kilo baby.

Later we were taken to the elephant loading ramp, and my expectations plummeted – it was so typical! A touristy two-person, basket-like saddle mounted on an elephant. I thought shuzbut, this is not going to be exciting at all; and true to form the guide and elephant gave us a 20-minute boring ride around the farm, before bringing us back to the loading ramp to unload.

I thought that’s it, that’s what we came here for? But just as that disappointing thought had finished an attendant pointed us back to loading area – two elephants had suddenly appeared with no basket saddles; just one guide on each one. We eased ourselves on each one, in front of the guide, with just a light collar rope to hang onto for balance as we rode precariously until a sense of steadiness could instill confidence. Next we encouraged the giants down same path we had come up from the river on earlier; but didn’t stop when we got to the water’s edge — we just kept on going.

   

  

 

Soon we were mid-stream in 1.5 meters of water, and the fun began. Sierra was told to move up as far forward as she could until she was sliding down the elephant’s trunk. The elephant quickly raised its trunk to halt her slide, and held her leaning there against its leathery forehead. Then the mammoth raised itself as high as it could by squatting down on its hind legs, and stretching up as much as possible, putting Sierra about 4-meters in the air.  Next a whistled command and it came crashing down flinging my daughter about a meter in front with a gigantic splash of water – a Kodak moment!

After that initial solo splash we all became embroiled in a tremendous water battle – even the elephants. They were taking turns tossing us into the water, or we would stand up on them and dive in. The novelest, using the elephant’s ability to suck up large amounts of water with their trunks, and then aiming them at each other in a most bizarre water gun fight I’ve ever participated in – making a Super Soaker Water Blaster seem like … well, a toy!

Leaving the river, the guides had us ride own our own elephant home. They gave us rudimentary voice command lessons, and then the two of them rode off, leaving us in charge of our monstrous steed. Yes, there was a moment of fear, as we left the water to head up the hill, but that was soon replaced by practicing our “he-ya” call along the 200-meter trail to encourage our mount back to the loading dock we started from – it was a strange feeling to be riding bareback, on our own atop these slow, sure footed beasts.  There was a satisfying bonding and feeling of exhilaration at the same time with each step. After unloading there was an immense sense of accomplishment that put our experience at the top of any expectation list we could have possibly had.

A dozen other travelers had arrived at the elephant sanctuary, and I am sure they noticed our ear-to-ear grins after our most amazing elephant encounter; but they seemed to be satisfied with just watching elephants practicing basketball hoops, painting and photo-ops – to each their own; but I know we had much more fun.

We waved goodbye to our guides, and office staff and headed back to our boat for the ride back home to our hotel – both father and daughter much closer after our shared adventure. And not knowing Sierra had more ideas of what was yet to happen.

On our mid-afternoon return there was a need, or was that a want, to have a Thai massage, and for about $40US, expensive by some Thai standards, we headed up to the 3^rd level massage balcony for a relatively mild kneading, pulling, twisting, and stretching; much less painful than I’ve had before; but much more relaxing in the end … is there such a thing as a bad massage – No!

At supper, my daughter excused herself from the table; to use the washroom, I thought. But then I heard the night’s keyboard entertainment switch into the familiar tune of Happy Birthday to You; followed by my daughter’s familiar voice as she began singing, in a most memorable way, for my 65^th birthday celebration – she had even got the kitchen to whip up an impromptu pineapple birthday cake – what a treat! What a great day: fun and excitement, boat travel, soothing massage, and a dedicated song and cake just for me. I was a happy man.

We would depart the following day, but planned a kayak trip in the morning that would leave us lots of time to pack, and check out by 11:30 to hopefully be at the train station’s return to Bangkok. Our morning agenda was a little tight, so following breakfast we quickly headed down to the dock and jumped into our long-tail to go up river to the kayak zone’s pickup. There were two surprises waiting for us as we took the 12-minute trip: one, there were two floating lodges on the river not far from our hotel, that looked like they provided strong 4-star experiences, which is itself another story in Thailand; and secondly where we got into our tandem kayak, was a peculiar choice as it was the only place I had seen that had fast currents and strong back eddies. After that apprehensive thought we were both helped into our plastic shell and pointed out towards mid-stream, with a warning that if we heard a high-speed long-tail coming then we should go as close as possible to the shore.

That warning was heeded a few times, and there were never any close encounters that would have marred our peaceful day. The quiet of kayaking was amazing, we had a guide in his own light craft, and he seemed intent on watching the shores – as if he were looking for signs of wildlife, but none was ever seen. The next sensation was another throw back in time – the poignant history of this history; almost vividly you could imagine shouts going out as captors searched for escapees from the Japanese prisoner-of-war camp, and the inevitable screams as they were caught and tortured.

Bits and pieces of old concrete construction could be seen along the shore, and its reason for being added to the intrigue of an imagination gone wild.

As we lightly paddled to our dock there was nothing but regret – why had we chosen to stay only two nights at this magical location … a week would even be too short.

 

Fast facts:

Transportation: The train from Bangkok to Nom Tok is often late, especially on the return trip. Buses are also available as are private taxis. Prices range from 100Bht to 4500bht. there were always drivers available at public terminals that were much cheaper than hotel arranged transport.

Money & Prices: exchangers at the airport give an OK rate, but city exchange office’s rates are usually better, by 1-2%. There seems to be price zones – the southern touristy beach areas were all more expensive than Central Thailand, and I was told that N.E. Thailand has even lower inflated prices.

Health: We always used bottled water; but ate a variety of items ranging from street food to three/four-star restaurants and never had any upset stomachs.

Accommodation: There are several hotels along the River Kwai, most are floating, and a few along the river front; most are owned by the same company – Serenata. Ours was the River Kwai Resotel.

Nom Tok: Drivers always seemed available at public terminals that were much cheaper than hotel arranged transport.Major attractions: Bua Thong Waterfalls; Hellfire WW2 Museum, several cave sites.

Bangkok – a night time arrival is best. This city’s traffic is notoriously congested; and no matter where your hotel is a late arrival will have you there in less than half the time than arriving during the day-time.

A second suggestion; at the airport get a Thai SIM card for your cell phone for about 300 Baht ($10); and you’re good to go with 500M to 1G of data. As a bonus the Thai phone number gives you international texts, local calls, and low-cost international codes to phone home avoiding all those pocket robbing roaming fees most Western carriers love to subject you to.

Next prepare yourself for the next day’s adventures – yes, that’s with an “s”! Get a good rest, you will need it, Thailand is all about adventure, but you must be prepared because you never know when it comes until you’re living it.

My daughter, Sierra, and I had arrived here after she expressed a desire to see elephants; and my experience said pleasant-weather Thailand was the best place to introduce her to them. As a bonus Thailand had other things to offer too; relatively low prices, Buddhist attractions, and ocean water sports were all in close proximity.

And now we were here! Once checked into our Bangkok hotel, we were on the street looking for a quick snack, and a hasty mojito to celebrate our arrival. After that it was to back to our hotel for an early sleep – the next day was going to be busy!  We had to be up early in the morning to find Bangkok’s Thonburi train station for its 8:00 a.m. departure to central Thailand’s tropical forest area.  The train’s terminus, Nam Tok, was close to tomorrow’s destination, a boutique retreat hotel on the River Kwai.

Fearing traffic could be an issue we checked out at 6:00 a.m. to catch a taxi for the train station – not knowing there were two stations with the same name! One old and the other new, but our driver, once knowing our final destination was Nam Tok, knew the “old” station was where to go. Even with his knowledge the driver’s work was challenged by Bangkok’s labyrinth road system; and worse, the complexities a Thursday morning market’s set up that had blocked a direct road to the railway station. Luckily, we soon found that the Thonburi train station was just on the other side of this large market, and once we discovered a narrow lane we were at the station quickly. Within minutes of arriving we had our tickets in hand; the price, 100 baht, less than the cost of a beer! This for an open seating’s tickets on a scheduled 4-hour ride – no, adventure!

The across-the-street morning market provided everything and more we would possibly need: fruits, fruits, and more fruits; steamed leaf wrapped snacks, and beverages served in bottles, or for half the price plastic bags, and they keep the bottle – your choice!

As the departure hour neared various antique railway cars shuttled back and forth to form our train finally the boarding whistles blew, 40-minutes late! It was time to rush up the stairs, suit cases in tow, and find a seat with an unknown vantage point. Middle right seemed to be good at the time, and for most of the trip it was, but as we started crossing rivers, and following them to our destination the other side, with its river views seemed the best choice.

We rode in the only available option – 3^rd class coach. I would highly endorse this mode of travel in Thailand. It gives you the opportunity to fully experience this lush and tropical country’s remarkable vistas, and have unique social interactions with Thai people. What might be called inconveniences by some, were actually conveniences: lightly padded wooden seats could be fully stretched out on; tech-busting, open-window air conditioning gave crystal clear photographic images; and on-board local vendors selling spiced fresh fruit, enjoyable home-made snacks, and unique beverages made our journey very rich.

    

Whole chapters could be written about our train route once it transferred onto the Death Railway tracks at Nong Pladuk. This is the beginning, or the end, of the infamous ribbons of steel that were torturously laid by allied WWll prisoners of war. Their Japanese captors wanted to shorten their supply lines to Burma and forced their prisoners to do so in record time by working them to death.

As you travel over flat fields, marshes with raised tracks, hand carved passes through solid rock hillsides, and bridges that would have tried the abilities of modern builders; it’s impossible not to visualize ragtag forced work gangs toiling in the hot tropical sun so far from home.

These visions aside, this journey is fascinating on so many levels: a literal time warp in transportation. After becoming accustomed to riding on bullet trains, and now going a mere 60 kph was a shock, for sure; but in a pleasant way. Surprising tree branches and leaves lightly poked in open windows; small harmless insects would stop for a rest, before flying away on their own personal journeys.

   

Often we were literally just centimeters away from greenery, and jagged rock faces. So close in fact that you dared not nudge your finger past the window’s frame without it being hit; but in open land it gave a unique option – sticking your head out the window for a cool down.  And best of all, to see the bending length of the train or to prepare for photographing imminent scenery that would soon be broadside; and the crystal clear photographs not compromised by shooting through glass windows.

The train’s photographic opportunities were also made unique by providing countless hues of green. How many you might ask? Banana green, corn-stalk green, papaya green, pineapple green, rice-field green, sugar-cane green, and the greenest of all coming from tapioca’s host; the many fields of Cassava plants. You might ask your local police force, what the importance is of being familiar with the many shades of green is all about – it’s worth knowing!

     

Back in the jungle, with its multi-colored tones, murky to gin-clear rivers, and eclectic slices of life charms your senses as you pass by at a leisurely pace. The train’s average speed is only 30 kph due to its many stops, and challenging turns along the routes river banks.

As we neared Nom Tok, a few hours late, it wasn’t without sadness that the journey was coming to an end, it had been an intriguing and rewarding trip. The sights, sounds, scents, and connection with the past was at times awe-inspiring – nothing less than magnificent.

This train venture alone could have been our day’s adventure, but there was more to come. After arriving at Nom Tok, a driver was quickly acquired to take us to a remote pier on the River Kwai. Here our hotel’s narrow “long-tail” boat-taxi, was waiting for us – but that’s another story for another time.

Cambodia’s warmth enveloped us like a perfect summer’s day – making the chill of winter’s winds, and single digit temperatures, seem but a distant memory as we disembarked down our airplane’s stairs to waiting shuttle buses for the last few hundred meters to Siem Reap’s quaint arrivals area.

We were soon greeted by a playful, but efficient, panel of immigration officials who quickly dispelled any thoughts of autocratic behavior, so familiar at most North American international airports, with their joking manner; this was like a breath of fresh air, and a harbinger of what was to come! as they quickly issued our required visas for entering Cambodia’s realm.

Within minutes after our arrival our adventure was set to begin – our hotel’s idea of transportation, a small three wheeled tuk-tuk, and flip-flop shod driver were waiting for us. He deftly  balanced our luggage with a quick, skilled manner on the front bench seat of our mini transporter and encouraged us to jump onto the slightly padded wooden-bench back seat

Although our gear jiggled, and swayed with every bump, and twist the road dared it with, the bags cheerily held, defying logic and gravity’s laws as we rocked and swayed down the narrow, dusty, rural road; challenging large trucks, cows, and walking ducks for leeway to our hotel.

   

Shamefully our rather spontaneously planned trip, with only a light knowledge of Angkor Wat and its mysteries, brought heady Tomb Raider visualizations of adventure – but did not prepare us for Siem Reap’s three significant treasures.

Elementary research, and childish visualizations of this architectural marvel, were soon replaced with awe to its size and scope. Of this Khmer empire – Angkor Wat was merely its iconic center-piece jeweled capital.

 Present day Thailand was annexed by them, along with much of Laos, and Vietnam surrendering to its might and domination. At its peak, the Khmer’s 700-year power reign controlled most of south-east Asia, and it’s capital, Angkor, vied for the title of being the largest pre-industrialized hub in the world.

Each generation’s kings, and their retinues, put their individual stamps of control over this ever expanding empire by the erection of hundreds, if not thousands, of palace temples along their path of occupation. Serving perhaps as symbols of control and imprinting their supremacy in engineering feat to encourage submission to a higher power?

These spectacular bold edifices, now vivid testimonials to the power of this ancient empire’s past sets a perfect stage – taking leave of the present for your imagination to run wild: envisioning people striding these sacred halls, barked commands, whispered conspiracies, chanted mono-toned hums first of Hindu followed by Buddhist prayers; contrasted with thousands of dainty giggles from enticing ladies-in-waiting who once flirted, cavorted, and offered intimacy to those in power and whose complex god-connected sensuality inspired their immodest bas relief images to forever adorn palace walls.

Now stone-cold soundless rooms, beyond history lessons chatterers, devoid of furniture, textiles,  and treasures that would have transformed them into vibrant homes stand as forlorn, lonely, and silent sentinels to what was once the center of a universe.

 

   

To begin a voyage of understanding Khmer’s dynasty visiting the Shangri-La-like Phnom Kulen is a must; not just for history buffs to see the dynasty beginnings; or Buddhists to pray at the sleeping Buddha; but for the adventurer too, wanting to immerse themselves into the headwaters of the Siem Reap river with its refreshing water-fall pools and foot nibbling fish. Canyons echoing the squeals of children’s delight now as a millennium’s past – inspired the beginning of an empire’s realm.

   

    

And then there’s Siem Reap, Angkor’s reincarnation, almost as amazing as the temples themselves!  Vibrating with the staccato noise of countless motorcycles, scooters, and tuk-tuks with their warning beep-beeps, “make way for me”, as they dodge, bob and weave their couriered passengers to their many and varied destinations.

The hustle and bustle’s windless day’s exhaust burdens the air; balanced by the relaxed, leisurely aroma’s that scented orchids, jasmine, and grilled food brings with just the slightest of breezes.

It’s a true UN hub of accents and linguistics, every continent’s lang uages can be heard as they eat, drink, shop, and wander through the maze of streets and markets: Pub Street, the Old Market, the Night Market, the trendy Alley West’s narrow upscale shopping streets, or the contrasting Central Market’s down-to-earth reality all squeezed into a mire of contrasting development.

Five-star hotels vying for space amongst minor hotels, guest houses, and hostels; Equally, Siem Reap is a gourmet’s delight from tasty street food, trendy sidewalk cafes, and upscale restaurants serving sumptuous local delights, and popular international specialties side, by side by side.  In short there is a place to stay, and food to eat for every man’s budget and taste.

 

Lastly, but of significant importance, the third jewel of Angkor – it’s citizens! From the officials at our entry’s custom’s visas, our hotel’s staff, the tuk-tuk drivers, our “unofficial” Angkor Wat guide, Whinny, street vendors, restaurant servers, central market hawkers – all were beyond pleasant!

Undoubtedly the most hospitable people I’ve had the pleasure of meeting in my many travels. Their genuine smiles and offers of kindness were never baited fronts for expecting anything more in return – they were like friends, being friends.

Our Cambodia visit was only for a few days, but with good luck its warmth will bring us back often.

Fast facts:

Most, if not all things in Siem Reap are quoted in USA dollars. Carry lots of $1, $5, and $10 bills.

On arrival you need a passport photo, $20US (tourist visa), and visa form to gain entry to Cambodia.

Angkor Archaeological Park admission: 1-day, $20; 3-day, $40; 7-day, $60 (if you buy your pass late in the day they will not stamp it therefore giving you an extra day access to the park.)

Phnom Kulen requires automobile transportation, and an additional entrance fee of $20. This park are closes to tourists at 3:00 P.M so plan your day accordingly.

Park guides at Angkor are a must;  I prefer a personal guide for touring Angkor Wat – cost $15, ½ day.

Over 70 four star, or better, hotels; over 250 two-three star hotels, dozens of guest houses.

Suggested dining experiences: Le Malraux, on Sivatha St: 063-966-041. Terrasse de Elephants Sivatha St. 063-965-572 are two we got to try, and would highly recommend. But there are many more we would have liked to have tried.